International Journal of Marine Science, 2024, Vol.14, No.4, 266-274 http://www.aquapublisher.com/index.php/ijms 270 methods, have shown that accurate modeling of wave shape nonlinearities is essential for improving prediction accuracy, particularly under severe wave conditions (Desmars et al., 2023). The implementation of the vortex force formalism in coupled ocean-atmosphere-wave-sediment transport modeling systems has also been shown to enhance the simulation of wave-induced flows and surf zone dynamics, providing better agreement with observed data (Kumar et al., 2012). Figure 1 A map of the study site, the illustration depicts the observed wave packets: c represents the direction of wave propagation, while BT represents the local direction of the barometric flow upon arrival. The dotted lines indicate the spacing of the four largest slots in the package, but the exact shape along the crest is unknown (Adopted from Zulberti et al., 2020) 6.2 Laboratory experiments and field observations Laboratory experiments and field observations are indispensable for validating numerical models and gaining insights into nonlinear oceanic processes. For example, wave tank experiments have been used to study the dynamics of rogue waves, revealing that both linear and nonlinear mechanisms contribute to their formation. These experiments have also demonstrated the applicability of real-time measurement techniques developed for optical systems to oceanographic studies (Dudley et al., 2019). Similarly, laboratory experiments comparing mechanically generated waves in a three-dimensional basin with numerical simulations have shown that numerical models can accurately describe the evolution of weakly nonlinear waves and predict the occurrence of extreme waves (Toffoli et al., 2010). Field observations have provided valuable data on sediment transport by nonlinear internal waves (NLIWs). Novel measurements of the turbulent benthic boundary layer beneath NLIWs have shown that these waves drive sediment transport through bed-stress intensification, turbulent transport, and vertical pumping mechanisms (Figure 2) (Zulberti et al., 2020). Additionally, observational and numerical modeling methods have been combined to quantify coastal ocean turbulence and mixing, highlighting the importance of integrating both approaches for a comprehensive understanding of these processes.
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